I’ve enjoyed afternoon tea in some wonderful places over the years, but having tea at Québec City’s iconic Château Frontenac was an experience I’d particularly looked forward to. And on a glorious October afternoon, with my mom as my companion, it turned out to be every bit as memorable as I’d hoped.
Our reservation was at Place Dufferin, the Château’s elegant restaurant overlooking Dufferin Terrace and the St. Lawrence River. While Tim and his sister Tina opted for poutine and a bit of exploring around the Old Town instead, Mom and I settled in for a leisurely afternoon of tea, treats, and people-watching.
We couldn’t have asked for a better table. Seated directly beside the enormous windows, we had a front-row view of Dufferin Terrace, where visitors were strolling, stopping for photographs, and enjoying the brilliant sunshine and autumn colours. It was the perfect spot to watch the world go by.
Inside, the atmosphere was just as lovely. Comfortable upholstered chairs, warm lighting, and beautifully set tables created an elegant but relaxed setting. I especially loved the colourful china, with its cheerful pinks, purples, greens, and blues—a playful contrast to the Château’s historic grandeur. A live pianist added a special touch, providing lovely background music without making conversation difficult—a particularly welcome detail when your companion is 90 years old and has hearing loss.
When we were first seated, our friendly server presented us with the tea menu and explained that live piano music would be starting shortly. Then she invited us to sit back, relax, and enjoy the afternoon. In fact, she told us there was only one decision we’d need to make: which kind of tea we’d like!Everything else would be taken care of.
I've enjoyed afternoon tea on several occasions, but I've never been inclined to splurge on an alcoholic accompaniment. At the Château Frontenac, you could upgrade to the Royal Tea experience, featuring three glasses of wine, including champagne, for an additional $68 per person. Given that afternoon tea is already an expensive indulgence—and that I'm not much of an alcohol drinker anyway—it wasn't something that tempted me.
So imagine my delight when our server arrived with a sparkling tea beverage, elegantly poured into champagne flutes! I'd never heard of sparkling tea before, and it was absolutely sensational. It had all the festive, celebratory appeal of a glass of bubbly, without the alcohol—or the additional expense.
Of course, that didn't mean I was about to forgo a proper pot of tea as well!
Before long, our tiered stand arrived, beautifully arranged with finger sandwiches, savoury bites, and an assortment of pastries and miniature desserts. There were warm scones with jam and clotted cream, too, of course—an essential part of any afternoon tea as far as I’m concerned! The desserts were particularly good, with such a generous assortment that we ended up taking several with us
Mom was particularly taken with the little three-coloured hourglass tea timer, which made it easy to keep track of the steeping time. She remarked that she really ought to have one herself as she dislikes setting a digital timer.
The food was good, although I wouldn’t say the scones or sandwiches were the best I’d ever tasted. But then, I hadn’t come expecting a culinary revelation. For me, afternoon tea has always been about much more than the food. It’s the pleasure of slowing down, enjoying a piping-hot cup of loose-leaf tea, and lingering over conversation in a beautiful setting.
And on this particular afternoon, the setting was absolutely the star.
One of my favourite little amusements was watching people walk along the terrace and attempt to peer discreetly through the restaurant windows. I could hardly blame them for being curious about what was happening inside! From our side of the glass, we had a perfect view of the passersby.
As it turned out, the view in the other direction was considerably more challenging.
I’d asked Tim and Tina to stop by while they were exploring the terrace and try to take a photograph of us through the window. I snapped a picture of the two of them outside from our table. But when Tim attempted to return the favour, the strong reflections made it surprisingly difficult to see inside.
He did manage to capture one good photograph, though, and when we saw it afterward, we got quite a kick out of comparing our two pictures and their different vantage points.
I’ve had afternoon tea in some lovely settings, but I don’t think any has surpassed this one for its view. Watching the world go by on Dufferin Terrace on such a beautiful autumn day, while sharing tea with Mom inside one of Canada’s most famous hotels, was a pleasure I’ll remember for a long time.
Practical Details: Afternoon Tea at the Château Frontenac
Location: Place Dufferin, Fairmont Le Château Frontenac, 1 Rue des Carrières, Québec City.
When: Afternoon tea is offered Tuesday through Saturday, with reservations generally available between 1:30 and 2:30 p.m.
Cost: Traditional afternoon tea is $89 CAD per person, plus taxes and gratuity.
What’s included: A selection of LOT 35 loose-leaf teas, finger sandwiches, freshly baked scones with Devonshire cream and preserves, and an assortment of pastries and sweets. A festive nonalcoholic sparkling tea beverage was also part of our experience.
Reservations: Advance reservations are highly recommended, especially if you’re hoping for a window-side table. I booked approximately two months ahead. You can book afternoon tea at Place Dufferin here.
A tip for getting a great table: When making your reservation, use the special requests field to ask for a table overlooking Dufferin Terrace. I was told that seating requests are given priority according to when reservations are made, so booking early can improve your chances. We were delighted to find ourselves seated right beside the windows! Of course, specific tables aren’t guaranteed.
